SHELTER HARBOR INN,

The two dining rooms of the Shelter Harbor Inn are varied in their moods " the long sunny room, overlooking the garden, stands in contrast to the center room, which is dominated by a blazing fire in the hearth and a low, planked ceiling. Menus at this romantic getaway change seasonally. One good appetizer choice on the winter menu is the tomato bisque ($3). It's appropriately robust, but not overly sharp. For the main event, the Inn's touted hazelnut chicken ($13.95) is worthy of its reputation. Off the straight and narrow there is veal with wild mushrooms and artichokes ($15.95), served breaded and sauteed with sweet red pepper, tomato sauce, and a heavy sprinkling of Romano. New England traditionals like jonnycakes ($2.50) and Indian pudding ($3.25) anchor the dessert menu, but fruit desserts also make seasonal appearances.